How to Make Bead Keychains: A Pink Flower and Butterfly Desig

Finished product, all one wire. Every time I make the piece, I get the same reaction. People look at the flower drop, the butterfly drop, the rounded loop up top, and they think that it had to be three different wires twisted together into one. Not true. It is not. If you have been trying to piece together how to make bead keychains that will hang correctly and not fall apart at the bottom, this single-wire trick is the entire thing (I wasted quite a few beads before this fact hit me, so hopefully you won't).

Here's a true ZoeDIY project, a full beading keychain tutorial that shows how it actually happens on the bench, pink beads and two tiny focal charms strung onto one continuous length of gold wire that stays intact until the very end. No glue.

What are we making, and how does the one-wire structure work?

This is a drop hanging item in the palest pink. Starting with a rounded beaded loop at the top, you'll see 2 drops, 1 with a huge floral and the other with a butterfly and the 2 drops. The drops are set offset not mirror images so that your eye keeps moving all the way down and not stopping on a mirror image. That slight imbalance is what keeps it from looking factory-made and having that as the goal.

Short answer: one wire length passes through hole one of two holes, coils once around top loop, passes through hole two of 2 holes. Two tails hang down beneath. Each tail becomes a drop. The buckle is placed into each drop, snip snip snip. The ring goes on. Most important is that it is one wire the whole time.

If you wanna watch and do, here's everything you need to begin (the entire project is located on the DIY Keychains & Keychain Supplies page):

Which verified beads, charms, wire, and findings are used?

Key material is acrylic beads, with a few pre-made items. When you are picking acrylic beads for keychains, the faceted and pumpkin shapes here are what carry the whole look. All product names first, FS number afterward ( ). One link to each product so the process remains neat.

Tool: flat-nose or combination pliers that have a wire-cutting part. Any hand tool with the ability to flatten a small buckle and cut steel wire will suffice. You won't get away with cheap pliers—investment in good pliers is worth it.

Worth noting on their own, the tiny flower beads at the bottom of each drop are that tiny flower shape! bridges the two sides of the butterfly back to the Flower side.

Step 1 - organize your stuff

Lay it all out on a clean flat surface so the holes and wire ends are in clear view and separate into 4 groups so that you won't be frantically searching for the next piece while building: upper loop, flower drop, butterfly drop, final ring. Place the 2 Black Round Locating Buckles (FS5810) with the small finishing beads, as you only need to grab them after finishing each drop. Nothing at the moment attached. Just laid out.

Before the steps: the whole thing is one wire. When later you read "the second tail" that is not a new wire. same continuous length just other end. stay clear on that and you won't make the mistake most novices do.

How do you form the upper beaded loop?

Step 2 - Feed the wire through the first hole

Horizontal, held the Designer 2 Hole Beads (FS19958), with both holes visible. Feed one end of the 0.3mm Gold Steel Wire (FS6931) through the first hole and pull only part way through. Leave a short tail below and keep the remaining side long. This long side becomes your working end for the entire loop. No knot, no crimp, no glue, just yet.

Step 3 - Begin the first side with faceted beads

Now on the long end, add the first faceted Approx. 10mm Acrylic Bead (FS17848) and slide it down to the connector, then keep adding one by one, Alternating Pink & Clear AB in the pattern below so the color flow looks even. Stick 'em on one by one. Push each down before you add another to keep them snug rather than spaced; spacing can be a problem later when the loop curves & the beads begin to separate. These tiny beads help span the gap between the rectangular connector & the larger focal beads.

Step 4 - Place the very first spacer and pumpkin bead

Begin by threading one AB Circle Spacer (FS10248) over the faceted beads, followed by one 16mm Clear Pink Pumpkin Acrylic Bead (FS1735), just sit it right on the spacer, and do not press the grooved pumpkin shape flat as it's the groove that reflects the light. Spacers are a thin reflective relief, pumpkin bead is your first broad focus. Big impact!

Step 5 - second spacer, then continue to climb away

Insert another AB Circle Spacer (FS10248) above pumpkin bead, then add a Pink and Clear AB Approx. 10mm Acrylic Beads (FS17848) one at a time. Spacer on either side of pumpkin bead helps keep jump in size from looking too extreme. Guide new beads to curve toward top center. Go slowly.

Step 6 - Shape over the top middle

Continue threading the faceted beads onto the wire while you bend it into a rounded arch with your fingers, and do not fold the wire tightly at any spot! A kink shows through the beads, so when it hangs it reads bent instead of curved. Allow the beads close enough to read as one loop, but with enough give to curve. This is where the ring will be perched later. Pay attention to the shape. Don't rush.

Step 7 - Same as the other side, repeat the pattern on the other side

Pull the wire over the top and aim for the second hole that is still empty. Repeat the same product order and visual rhythm as side one: faceted Pink and Clear AB beads, AB Circle Spacer (FS10248), the second 16mm Clear Pink Pumpkin Acrylic Bead (FS1735), again a spacer, and the last faceted beads down to the second hole. Slide each down as you go. Keep the sequence the same, the bead reflections and exact angle just will not land as a perfect mirror of side one, this is a different kettle of fish from an error, it's absolutely okay.

Step 8 - Close the loop by passing the wire through the second hole

Take the long working end and guide it through the 2nd hole of the Designer 2 Hole Beads (FS19958) pull it down but do not reinsert the working end back in the 1st hole and pull just tight enough to snug the beads into a rounded loop without cinching the loop stiff. The wire is now run through the first hole, around the entire arch, back out the 2nd hole again, one long continuous upper structure. Two tails are hanging below now, one per hole, same wire. Read that twice.

Step 9 - Adjust the loop before either drop

Lay it down and lightly rub the faceted beads, spacers and 2 pumpkin beads with your fingers to distribute evenly around the arch and then slowly gently pull both tails to tighten if there are any obvious open gaps while keeping the connector slightly horizontal positioning both pumpkin beads opposite sides with the spacers still beside them. This is the last good opportunity to adjust and correct the loop shape. Do not pull so tight the loop stiffens. Loose but tidy.

How do you build and secure the large flower drop?

Step 10 - Create the transition above the flower

Choose one tail, let the other hang. Thread a short transition onto the chosen tail. Pink and Clear AB Approx. 10mm Acrylic Beads (FS17848) with one AB Circle Spacer (FS10248) worked into the group then slide the whole group up under the connector so it just sits in, no slack between the beads is visible. This creates a little gap between connector and flower, and mimics the pink and AB finish of the loop above. Same effect. Smaller batch.

Step 11 - Turn the flower over, locate the rear channel

Take the Approx. 32×32mm Clear Pink Crystal Flower Metal Patch (FS101041) and reverse it so the silver-colored back is facing you. Flip the piece over and locate the thin horizontal channel built into the back of the piece. (Be sure to grasp the metal by the edge so the face is not smushed on the table.) The wire itself is threaded through this horizontal channel. (No glue, no added jump ring!)

Step 12 - push the wire through the rear channel

Guide the wire from one side of the back channel through to the other, one pass, not back and forth. Pull the wire until the flower rides up and settles just below the transition beads, not through them. Twist so the pink face is out and the silver back is facing back to where no one can see it. Thread the continuous wire through the built-in back channel so the Flower hangs in the middle without another connector.

Step 13 - Seat the flower, be sure it faces front

Push the flower up the wire so it sits snug against the transition beads above. Carefully reposition so the 5 pink petals are facing you and it doesn't sit upside down and flat for 1 sec to make sure the flower hangs below the connector and doesn't obscure it. Front and back are different, correct this now. Not later. It's not locked yet, buckle comes after.

Step 14 - Insert the faceted finishing bead

Thread one faceted Approx. 10mm Acrylic Bead (FS17848) on the wire under the flower, sliding it up to just under the flower. This balances the bead between the big flower and the smaller finishing bead, and creates a crisper edge to the drop.

Step 15 - Add the little lily flower bead

Thread one 4mm Pink UV Lily Flower Acrylic Bead (FS6485) on end of same tail, push up underneath the faceted bead. Rest little flower shape flush so it does not snag at an angle. The lower sequence on this drop now reads: large flower, faceted bead and small lily flower bead. Make sure it sits flush before proceeding.

Step 16 - Insert and compress the first buckle

Thread one Black Round Locating Buckle (FS5810) onto the wire up under the lily flower bead then hold the buckle with the pliers and squeeze it tight onto the steel wire while keeping the pliers at the back of the metal buckle well away from the beads. Tool on the buckle only, never on the acrylic beads! Tool until tight, this will prevent all the parts above from sliding off. The wire remains below, this is cut off at the end of the job, not here.

How do you build and secure the butterfly drop?

Step 17 - Assembling the transition (top of the butterfly)

Now the second tail, also unadorned. Applying part 2 of the drops. Thread with transitions in Pink and Clear AB Approx. 10mm Acrylic Beads (FS17848) and one AB Circle Spacer (FS10248) in between the faceted beads, and slide each one up, then rest the stack just below the second hole of the Designer 2 Hole Beads (FS19958), not pushed into the hole. I wouldn't over-lengthen this side to match the flower, as the design is based on an equilibrium of two shapes rather than a molded matched pair. They are not twins by design!

Step 18 - Find the butterfly top hole, orient it

Pick up the 31×41mm Pink Clear AB Butterfly Acrylic Charm (FS1015) and locate the small hole on the top. Hold it so the Pink Clear AB face that is the most reflective points out in the completed piece. Keep the wire tail long enough so you can pass it through the top hole without scraping the edges of the hole. Top hole only. No jump ring as none is being used.

Step 19 - Thread the wire through the butterfly

Thread the wire down the top hole of the butterfly charm. Pull the wire through so it's flush against the second transition stack. Now turn the charm to sit upright with its wings spread sideways and reflective face facing you so it light bounces off as it does with the flower, and fingers crossed got this otherwise the butterfly is leaning or looking at its back, sure you know what I mean!, frustrating!

Step 20 - Insert the faceted finishing bead

Thread one faceted Approx. 10mm Acrylic Bead (FS17848) onto the wire that is coming through the butterfly. Bring it all the way up to rest under the charm. Same tempo as the Flower side. That is the place.

Step 21 - Insert the tiny lily flower bead

Thread one 4mm Pink UV Lily Flower Acrylic Bead (FS6485) onto the tail, close to the faceted bead, making sure it is not twisted or caught on the butterfly. Repeat the small floral pattern from the flower drop and maintains a matching bottom edge across both strands.

Step 22 - add the second buckle (don't trim yet)

Thread second Black Round Locating Buckle (FS5810) onto the wire, up under the lily flower bead so there is no obvious gap left showing, but do not close up or cut end until we compare both drops. Not yet. No knot below buckle.

Step 23 - Compare both drops, adjust

Number 3, the crucial checkpoint. Place it down, level both bottom strands to each other. Check the flower and butterfly to be facing out, neither cover the full other, and the drops to be sitting out of level with each other. Adjust the second buckle if needed before squeezing. Keep the connector level, recheck the upper loop while you are here. This is the look as the two focal pieces are sitting differently, but in balance.

Step 24 - squish the second buckle

CRUSH the second Black Round Locating Buckle (FS5810) on the steel wire. Pliers on the buckle. Lift the strand slightly and check the butterfly, faceted and lily flower beads remain in place. Two drops affixed! The wire below each buckle remains. This is the spare wire we trim next.

How do you trim the wire and attach the keychain ring?

Step 25 - Shorten the extra wire below both buckles

Use the cutting end of the tool to cut the 0.3mm Gold Steel Wire (FS6931) spares below the first buckle, then re-place and cut below the second. Cut only after confirming both buckles are flush. Unsightly excess should be beginning to appear as a little tail, not anything elaborate. Snip, snip. Both of the lower strands should end tidy, flush below the buckle.

Step 26- Secure the keychain ring

Open the hinged part of the 20mm White Rhinestone Hinged Keychain Ring (FS10174), then insert the open ring around the wire at the top center of the loop utilizing the small opening between the beads at the top, and then close it completely so that it catches the loop itself, rather than pressing the ring on the side of a bead. This is the primary mounting ring for keys, or other hangings that will accept this ring. Final step, one last time.

Step 27—Final visual & functional verification

Lift the entire thing by the ring and dangle both drops and re-check it remains rounded, both pumpkin beads are visible opposing each other, the connector hangs evenly, the flower is facing out, the butterfly is right side up, and both buckles are under their lily flower beads. Place flat and open the flower and butterfly to make both focal pieces visible. This final look is to show a twisted strand, reversed charm, open ring or stray wire end to be caught before you go to use it.

What should you check before using the finished accessory?

Quick run-through before it goes on your keys:

• Orientation: flower butterfly both faceout, connector leveled.
• Gaps: none loose spacing either drop or around loop.
• Wire ends: both trimmed short and flush below their buckles, no long sharp tail left...
• Buckles: both fully compressed and anchoring their drops.
• Ring: Hinged ring that is fully closed when snagged on the loop, it is not simply a bead.
• Attachment point: Don't want to hang it on a keyring? Make sure the item has an actual attachment point.

Related ZoeDIY materials and your next project

Make one and voila—you have a one wire technique! Once you know how to make a keychain with beads and charms on a single wire, you can switch out the colors, use a different center charm, mix it up with longer or shorter drops, and the one wire technique still works whether you're going larger, smaller or adding a completely different charm to each drop. When you're ready to start the next batch, head back to the DIY Keychains & Keychain Supplies page for beads, charms, wire, rings and findings! Shop the entire selection online at ZoeDIY!

FAQ

why is it one continuous wire and not two separate wires?

The advantage of one is that a single wire holds the whole piece connected at a single anchor. It runs up through the first hole, around the loop, down through the second hole and is left with two tails for the drops. The loop and both drops are on the same anchor, so nothing sits on a new join that might come undone.

I wondered how the beads would stay on the two drops at the bottom?

Each drop is secured with a Black Round Locating Buckle (FS5810). After you've threaded the charm, faceted bead and smaller lily flower bead onto a tail, you then slide a buckle up underneath them and squeeze it onto the wire. Squeeze it until it is securely in place, then cut off the excess wire.

what do I need to check before trimming the wire?

Both buckles compressed, both drops how you'd like. Check the flower, compare to the butterfly so they stagger, both face out, double check the loop, make tiny adjustments first. Trimming is the final structural adjustment, so be sure before you make a cut!

Is the finished piece suitable as a phone charm or bag charm too?

Possible but yes it depends on your phone case or bag, it's got to have something for the ring to attach on! Before you try and hang a ring off something, just make sure that the loop or strap you are attaching to is meant to be able to hold the ring in place.

Is it OK to use other acrylic beads or charms?

Yes, that is part of the challenge. Make sure that the bead holes can thread on the wire, that the replacement charm will have a usable hole or channel like the flower back channel or the butterfly top hole, and that using a heavier piece changes the way the drops hang. Try on your own beads - don't assume that every bead will thread onto the wire.